With Gold In Their Hills (Part I)

by Steve Dryden on January 24, 2011

in General,Guest Writers,Weekly Post

Throughout 2011, Images For Renewal will publish excerpts from wine writer Steve Dryden’s Vino Mundo series. This post about the wines from the Gorizia region represents the first of the series and was written while Steve was traveling in Italy in December 2010.

Massive amounts of pure gold are being unearthed in the province of Gorizia in northeastern Italy along the Slovenian border. Within this “magical-like kingdom” of Austrian-Hungarian and Italian decent lies the wine region of Collio, which produces distinct white wines with 14K gold color. Not only are these wines beautiful in color, but the flavors drawn from the rich mineral soils are interpreted by the vines and fruit varietals into stunning white wines of elegance, finesse, and distinction.

We’ve come to this beautiful wine producing region located between the Giulian Alps and the Adriatic Sea as two wine prospectors searching for bottled treasures of delight. Little did we know that we’d find gold in the vineyards, wines, and souls of the local artisan people: the chefs and winemakers. In fact, I was so taken aback with the region that I raced into Trieste to stake a claim, so I can return and explore this region for a seemingly endless amount of gems and jewels in the wine and culinary cultures blended together here over many centuries. We’re here with our newest project: Vino Mundo Productions, a collaboration between myself as a wine, culinary, and travel writer and the talented filmmaker, Adrian Ruiz.

Filmmaker Adrian Ruiz

In addition, I’m here to trace my Austrian-Hungarian roots as a member of the Haider clan that moved to America from Vienna in the late 1890’s. My great grandfather, Michael Haider, grew grapes and made wine near the famous Farmer’s Market in Los Angeles, California. As a vineyard manager and winemaker in Mexico, I’ve always wondered about my natural tendencies to indulge in farming, winemaking, along with the consumption of gourmet culinary delights, and an incurable urge for all things Italian. It only took a few minutes of exploration at my first stop in Trieste to fully understand the meaning of my Austrian-Hungarian heritage. The churches, the architecture, the promenades, the cuisine, the coffee, and, of course, the great white wines from the Collio region.

Making friends in Trieste

Trieste is about an hour train ride from the province of Gorizia and the Collio wine region and makes a great departure locale, especially if you’re looking for gold in the hills of northeastern Italy. Trieste is a gem in itself, a very charming and classic city, very much “off” the tourist maps, a real “dynamic destination” in my opinion. It’s no wonder that James Joyce lived and worked here for twenty years without ever mentioning what a “hidden treasure” he had discovered in the city, the people, and the lifestyle. Sigmund Freud lived and wrote here, too, but he was somehow able to avoid a “Freudian slip” and reveal the magical world he discovered here as well. Sometimes good things are better kept to yourself, but the secret about Italy’s emerging white wines is already being discovered around the world by serious wine lovers and connoisseurs.

To be continued next week.

Steve Dryden is a wine, culinary, and travel writer based in Mexico’s premier wine country where he grows northern Italian Nebbiolo grapes, makes Barbaresco-style wine, and guides small group wine tours. He can be reached at: sbdryden@hotmail.com. Follow his wine and culinary adventures at Food and Wine Global Guide.

All photos for this post courtesy of Steve.

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